We had begun the holidays on Iona then off to Mull for a couple of days at Aunty Mo’s B and B in Tobermory for the Mull rally. The plan was then to return for a day or two on Iona to complete the tour.
We set off at 7am to get the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure at 7.45. A great breakfast set us up for the day and we drove off for Iona down through Glen More and Pennygael, by Bunessan and on to Fionnphort and our second ferry of the day.
The Calmac brekkie is a great start to anyone’s day and with a full Scottish on offer it’s hard to resist. Over the coffee, Joy and I are looking forward to the leisurely trip south with no deadlines to meet. Mull and Iona have that Hebridean effect – the pulse rate reduces at just the thought of the beaches and the hills and lochs.
Off the boat and a wee detour into Gleaners to see Nicky. The front gate of the fuel depot has been Oban FM’s base camp for the Rally for a few years now. It’s always nice to pop in and ask if it’s OK again this year? We catch up on what’s new and sort out what’s needed for the rally and then it’s off south to Iona.
Glen More always catches my breath and the three wee lochs as you climb to the highest part of the road are ‘chust sublime’!
Over a hundred families used to get a living in the glen in days of old – now one or two houses remain. Pop in twenty more and Lochdonhead School would be secure for years ahead and it’s doubtful that anyone would notice them there. Planners and educationalists need to get together and chat.
On down toward Pennygael and along Loch Scridain and out of the corner of my eye – an otter! Just a glimpse and then he is gone – we pull up and stare at the loch. How long can these delightful wee animals stay down there? Must Google that when we get to the broadband. Now what else can we see?
Moments later we are buzzed by a mystery bird of prey – I didn’t get a decent look but it wasn’t a buzzard – a wee bit smaller maybe…greyish blue says Joy – another one for the Google list (other search engines are available). Boy, do the tourist board put on a good show!
We stop at the store at Pennygael for juice and sweeties and the postcards too. Joy meets Joy and we remember the stamps! It’s the shop with the best view on the west coast, right across the loch and Joy, the shop keeper and the shop’s stray cat, loves it.
So off we go, refreshed and ready for more.
Not long after, we met the stag and his ladies right on the road. Visit Scotland is pulling out all the stops today! The Stag is happy to escort his charges off the road and down the bank – all three launch elegantly over the fence and into the heather, and with a couple of backward glances they are gone. They appear in good health and ready for winter – and there is still some great grass to build their energy before the snow moves down to the lower ground.
Little more to report before the second ferry – we park at the free car park beside the Columba centre where we expected millions to arrive to celebrate the great mans anniversary – in 1997, was it? Not so many came as we hoped then but here in October the pilgrims do keep coming.
Iona is very special and as you step of the boat for the first time you will feel it too. It is serene and peaceful and unique, I think.
What makes it so is the expectation we all come with. We will all feel better soon. We will relax and chill whether we are here on a week’s retreat with the community or just for a day with the coach trip.
It helps that folk speak to each other – at least a ‘hello’ in the passing. Some stop for a chat we all have time to spare. ‘Time is an irritating but persistent illusion’, said Einstein and I think he is correct. On Iona it does slow down or in many ways it stops. That allows us time to talk and to think as well.
‘Extend to each person, no matter how trivial the contact, all the care and kindness and understanding and love that you can muster and do it with no thought of reward. Your life will never be the same again’ – Og Mandino
Iona always provides a bit time. Time for music, a chance to get away from the telly which is such a draw and I have a chance to catch up on a few albums that come through on the mail.
People are more important when you have time and on Iona everyone has a little more to spare and most say ‘hello’ as we passed on the roads and byways. I wonder if that is because most folk walk? Some cycle but they still say ‘hello’. The few that drive, generally because they are not on their holidays and have a living to make, wave instead.
All in all, Iona brings out the nicer side of the human doing. Most of us spend the year as human doings – on Iona we become human beings again, and it is delightful. I kicked back on the Island. Big-time!
We met some nice folk – none more so than the twenty plus American ladies. They had come to enjoy the peace and quiet too. They had brought a nice author of their acquaintance and they had a few days finding the peace and joy that the island brings. And finding themselves too.
All too soon our two short visits – interspersed with the Mull rally visit to Iona’s big neighbour – were over. (See the separate report on For Argyll).
We had booked to be back home on the one o’clock from Craignure so we set off in plenty time to get to the terminal at 12. That allowed for a visit to Castaways, the very fine charity shop. Always a musical and book bargain to be had and that proved true once again. Three tapes and three CDs, a packet of hilarious postcards and a book about how to make boxes and Mrs C and myself were delighted.
By one o’clock no sign was to be seen of the MV. Isle of Mull but a check online from the mobile phone confirmed she would be late – as she had not left till 11.30 on the previous journey. Still an old Castaway Max Boyce tape kept us amused with great rugby based tales. Saw Max in Oban once. Great stories – generally at the expense of the Welsh and Scots common rugby playing neighbour and at his own expense too.
Still no ferry as we approached two pm …and then out of the mist there she came ….and there she went …off up Loch Linnhe! We sat and cogitated a new Calmac service incorporating Fort William, but soon she returned, heading it seemed back toward Oban.
The wind was getting up again and not just down the sound of Mull! 67 knots was recorded at the end of the pier. No wonder she was struggling a bit. But soon the IOM returned and levered herself into the berth disgorging her vehicle charges followed by the delighted passengers.
Excitement built in the old Rover but advice followed that we would board in time for a three o’clock sailing. Back to Boyce and the rugby stories.
Three o’clock came and went with the wind still up …and news that the situation would be continuously reviewed.
By four we were being advised we could travel by Fishnish and Lochaline …some left to do just that but we stayed, the CalMac curry and macaroni specials were still looking good for a late lunch.
We set off for the new cafe in the old craft shop for coffee and cakes to keep morale up. That did the trick and on our return it was decision time. Fishnish or Fionnphort? A run for home or a run for another night in paradise? What would you choose? Yes us too!
‘We can make the last ferry if we go now’, urged my fellow conspirator and off we went.
The five o’clock to Oban never sailed either but the last boat to Iona did! We stayed another two days! We went straight to the cottage dropped the bags and headed for the Martyrs bay where we were well fed and watered and rejoined the locals to rejoice our good luck in a dram or two.
Well you have to be sociable don’t you?
We whiled away many great hours just the two of us – over the papers, our books, the music, a wee walk to the abbey, we met a few folk and spread a little joy among them particularly one lady from America.
At the Abbey – we lit a candle for Mary and one for Dad and John and one for Jack too. All gone to a better place.
Humans being. Just being.
NOTE: http://www.isle-of-iona.com/ (Links not working yet but, post cyber attack, most functionality is now back in operation,. We’re winning.)
